Mold
and mildew are a major problem in warm, humid climates such
as the U .S. southeast where as many as 70% of all homes are
reputed to eventually suffer from mildew problems. Mildew
increases the risk of making the building occupants sick and
gives rise to expensive and frequent repairs and redecorating.
Mildew is a mold that grows under warm, humid conditions.
Optimal growth conditions are from 77° to 86° F (25°
to 30° C), and between 62% and 93% relative humidity.
Humidity
and Mildew: Causes and Cures
Sources of Humidity in Homes
Relative humidity (RH) inside buildings can be greatly increased
by adding moisture to the air in many different ways. In
houses, human activities such as preparing meals, washing
dishes and clothes, steam baths, whirlpool tubs, showers,
aquariums, plants, and even breathing add a lot of moisture
to the air. A 15-minute shower can add 1.7 pounds (0.75
kg) of moisture to the air; a cord of uncured wood drying
out can add 600 pounds (272 kg) of water; the infiltration
of humid air can add 360 pounds (163 kg) of water a day
to a typical home.
Moisture also enters from outside through open doors and
windows and by infiltrating the building envelope. Natural
ventilation through cracks, crevices and chimneys will cause
some air infiltration, but
this is accelerated by makeup air entering the building
to replace air that has been "exhaled" by exhaust
fans. Infiltration can change the air 24 to 48 times a day,
and when moisture laden outside air is brought in it throws
a tremendous load on air-conditioning equipment. This moisture
can amount to hundreds of pounds a day. With 100% relative
humidity, clothing, paper products, wood and some textiles
can absorb up to 20% of their weight in water.
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Oversized Air Conditioners
Improperly sized air conditioning units can also greatly
increase the humidity inside buildings as well. The role
of air conditioning in humid conditions is twofold; remove
moisture from the air, and reduce the temperature. Removing
moisture from air requires a far greater amount of energy
than simply lowering the temperature. Thus, it is vital
that NC units run constantly in humid conditions to keep
the RH below 60% (the level at which mildew mentioned previously
begins to grow).
Unfortunately, NC units are often oversized in humid climates
for the load requirement of the building. In these cases,
the units only run long enough to reduce the air temperature,
and do not actually remove much moisture. The result is
a lower indoor temperature, but actually a higher RH (colder
air cannot hold as much moisture as warmer air). To the
occupants, this environment feels clammy or "cave-like"
and less comfortable. This causes the occupants to turn
down the thermostat further, which can make the problem
worse, and wastes energy keeping the building cooler than
it needs to be.
Oversized AlC units are commonplace in humid climates because
of building practices of the past.
Older buildings had high rates of random air leakage. Ductwork
for systems were typically placed in unconditioned spaces
(i.e. attics and crawl spaces), and there was a loss of
conditioned air into these spaces due to leaks in the ducts.
These practices led to a great uncertainty for the A/C contractor,
who had to design a system to make up for the shortcomings.
The result was over-designed, oversized units.
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Solving
the Problem: Control Air-Ieakage and Correct A/C Sizing
The
only way to avoid mildew is to control the interior RH through
reduced air leakage and proper sizing of A/C equipment.
Building an air-tight structure accomplishes two things;
it limits the amount of moisture-laden air that gets inside,
and it makes life easier for the A/C contractor, who can
size a system that does not need to account for all that
random infiltration. A properly sized A/C unit runs for
longer periods, removing more moisture from the air and
lowering the RH as a result. Further reduction in A/C sizing
can be achieved by sealing ductwork and/or installing ductwork
within the conditioned space of the building. Unfortunately,
constructing buildings in humid climates that are free from
high RH and mildew has been difficult to achieve in the
past.
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Vapor Barriers are NOT the Solution
Most air leaks into buildings occur through sill plates,
electrical outlets, duct systems, and penetration through
attics, floors, and around windows and doors. One attempt
to combat the moisture problem has been to apply a vapor
barrier placed against the inside of the interior wall.
This is the wrong place for a vapor barrier in a humid climate.
The vapor barrier, at this relatively cool location, provides
a surface for condensation to occur as outdoor air moves
inside. Placing the vapor barrier on the inside of the exterior
wall creates another problem in the winter, when interior
vapor is trying to move outside.
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The Solution is a Monolithic Air Barrier With The
Insulation System®
The recommended solution was first proposed by the School
of Building Construction at the University of Florida: Eliminate
the use of a vapor barrier and instead use an air-retarder
in the wall to inhibit the passage of airborne moisture
into the building. While an air barrier inhibits the entry
of air it must be slightly vapor permeable to allow building
materials to dry.
The Insulation System® is a site-installed cellular
foam material that provides an excellent air barrier throughout
the entire building envelope. By expanding into cracks and
crevices and adhering to other building materials, this
soft flexible foam ties all other building assembly materials
together into a monolithic continuous envelope.
No other sheet-type air barrier material or method can match
lcynene's® performance when applied to
an entire building situation. With the air-sealing ability
of lcynene® in place, preventing outdoor moisture from
entering the building the A/C contractor can select a system
that is sized appropriately for the cooling load. Experience
has shown that typical A/C size can be reduced by 30% to
50% in humid climates. The smaller unit(s) run for longer
periods of time keeping the indoor RH lower while consuming
less energy.
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Additional
Tips for Occupants
• Set air-conditioner temperature higher
when using a ceiling fan.
• Set heating thermostat lower when away
from the house.
• Keep the interior temperature below 75°
F (24° C) and RH below 60%.
• Wipe-dry anything that gets wet after
use -things like shower doors, wet floors and tiles,
counter- tops, sinks, and spills in general. And hang
wet towels, mops and clothing outside to dry. By doing
this, the amount of moisture evaporating inside the
home will be drastically reduced.
• Close the fireplace damper when not in
use.
• Keep doors and windows closed in the morning
or after a rainfall, when the humidity is high. |
Tips
for Builders
• Build a tight building easily using lcynene®
insulation.
• Install mechanical ventilation that also
dehumidifies incoming air.
• Ensure that shower stalls and baths drain
properly and do not puddle.
• Waterproof and seal exterior block walls.
• Do not install a vapor barrier on exterior
walls.
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What
You Need To Know About Mold
NathanYost,MD Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D, P.Eng Terry Brennan,
MS
What Is Mold?
Mold, one type of fungus, is different from plants, animals
and bacteria. Molds are decomposers of dead organic material
such as leaves, wood and plants. Molds sometimes can infect
living plants and animals. The spores and hair-like bodies
of individual mold colonies are too small for us to see
without a microscope. When a lot of mold is growing on a
surface, it often appears black or green. The color of mold
is influenced by the nutrient source and the age of the
colony. If mold is growing behind vinyl wallpaper, colorful
pink or purple splotches may appear. Mold growing on fabric
is called mildew.
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What Does Mold Need to Grow?
Mold needs water to grow; without water mold cannot grow.
Mold also needs food, oxygen and a temperature between 40
degrees and 100 degrees F. Since mold decomposes dead organic
( once living) material it can grow on wood, the paper facing
on gypsum board (drywall) and other materials made from
wood. Molds secrete digestive fluids that decompose the
substrate, making nutrients available. Mold can also digest
some synthetic materials such as adhesives, pastes and paints.
While mold cannot get nutrients from inorganic material
such as concrete, glass and metal, it can grow on the dirt
present on these surfaces. Molds prefer damp or wet material.
Some molds can get moisture from the air when the air is
very damp, that is when the relative humidity is above 80%.
The high humidity makes surfaces damp enough for mold to
grow.
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How Does Mold Spread?
Mold can grow by extension of hyphae that are like tiny
root hairs. In this way, a small colony of mold can expand
to cover many square feet of material. Mold can also make
spores that are like very small seeds. Spores can survive
conditions that are too sunny, hot, cold, dry or wet for
mold to grow. When spores are released they can be carried
by air or water to new locations. Some spores are so small
that they are more affected by air currents than by gravity.
When spores land on a damp surface that has food and oxygen
available, and if the temperature suits them, they will
start to grow. It is important to realize that mold spores
are present everywhere, in outside areas as well as indoor
air- unless very special precautions are taken to remove
or kill them.
Wherever there is decaying organic material (leaves, mulch,
wood) mold and mold spores are also present. Everyday we
are exposed to airborne mold spores from outdoor sources,
sometimes at high concentrations. It is almost impossible
to create a mold free space or to keep a space mold free.
What we can do -and should do -is control the amount of
mold in our indoor environments.
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Why Do I Need To Know Anything About Mold?
Too much mold can affect the health of you and your family.
In addition, mold can damage or destroy building materials
such as the wood or gypsum board in our homes.
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What Are The Health Effects of Exposure To Mold?
Most people are not affected by exposure to mold, unless
they are exposed to a lot of mold. Unfortunately,
we are not quite sure what "a lot of mold" means.
Furthermore we don't know if "a lot" of exposure
to mold for "a brief time" is worse than "not
so much" exposure for a longer time. We're also not
sure what "not so much" means. Each person is
different; what amounts to a "lot of exposure"
for some people is "not so much" for others. Remember,
mold is everywhere; we are all exposed to mold every day.
Exposure to mold can cause allergy in susceptible people,
but we don't know how much exposure is necessary to start
the development of allergy .If you have asthma, exposure
to mold can cause an asthma attack or make your chronic
asthma get worse. At this point we do not know if exposure
to mold, especially early in life, can lead to the development
of asthma. Although exposure to "enough" mold
can cause allergy to mold in susceptible people, accurately
diagnosing the allergy can be difficult. Unfortunately,
doctors can test for allergy to only a very few of the thousands
of species (kinds) of molds that exist.
Only a few molds seem to be able to sometimes cause an infection
in healthy people; fortunately these molds do not usually
grow in buildings. However, people with a suppressed immune
system are much more susceptible to fungal (mold) infections
and many of these fungi do grow in wet buildings. Individuals
with AIDS, certain types of cancer and those with organ
(heart, kidney) transplants on certain drugs are much more
susceptible to fungal infections.
Molds sometimes make powerful chemicals called mycotoxins.
We think that molds make these mycotoxins to decrease the
growth of other molds and bacteria. Penicillin is a mycotoxin
that we use because it can kill certain bacteria. Unfortunately
some of these mycotoxins make people sick. Mycotoxins can
cause illness when they are inhaled, absorbed through skin
or ingested (swallowed). Presently we do not know all that
much about the health effects of most mycotoxins on humans.
Most of what we know about mycotoxins comes from exposure
of farm animals to moldy grain or hay. We do not have any
tests that can determine whether mycotoxins are the cause
of someone's illness. We cannot easily or reliably measure
the level of mycotoxins in air samples to determine exposure
levels.
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How Can I Prevent Mold From Growing In My Home?
The answer is simple: keep your home dry. If mold does not
have moisture it cannot grow. Remember mold spores are everywhere
so you cannot completely keep them out of your house. Since
our houses are built with wood products and paper faced
drywall, food for mold is always present. Mold can also
thrive on dust, cockroach and dust mite feces, skin flakes
and food particles. Oxygen is available in the air so we
cannot prevent mold growth by eliminating oxygen. Therefore,
controlling moisture is the only effective strategy for
preventing mold growth in our homes.
How Do I Keep My House Dry?
First, prevent excessive moisture levels in the air in the
house by using the exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens
where moisture is often generated. Make sure the air from
your clothes dryer exhausts from the house. Avoid using
a humidifier. If you think that you need a humidifier, first
measure the relative humidity inside your home. A device
called a hygrometer can measure the relative humidity .Try
to keep the relative humidity (RH) below 60%. There is rarely
a reason to use a humidifier if the RH is above 25%. If
you feel you must use a humidifier, measure the relative
humidity in the area receiving the humidified air. Never
let the humidifier raise the relative humidity above 35%.
Second, look for areas of dampness or wet spots. Roofs,
windows, basement walls and plumbing pipes sometimes leak.
If a leak happens suddenly, dry the wet materials as quickly
as possible. Mold spores begin to grow 24-48 hours after
a water leak. Dry the house quickly and mold will not be
a problem.
Small recurring or continuous leaks that are hidden in walls,
ceilings or floors present a different challenge since mold
growth could be extensive before it is detected. Be alert
for dampness in areas such as under sinks, in bathrooms
and in ceilings below bathrooms or other plumbing. If you
notice dampness in one of these areas or if you notice a
strong musty smell in one of these areas, contact your builder.
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What Should I Do If I Suspect I Have Mold In My
House?
First and foremost, do not panic. Remember mold is everywhere.
Even if you do have more than "normal"
amounts of mold in your house, you have not necessarily
been exposed to it. Exposure means that the mold or mold
spores or toxins have gotten inside your body by inhalation
(breathing), ingestion (eating) or absorption through your
skin. If mold is inside a wall in your home but it does
not get into the air, you have not been exposed. The mold
has to get from the wall cavity into the air in the house
before you can be exposed to it. However, that does not
mean that it's good to ignore the mold if you know you have
it somewhere in your house. The mold will continue to grow
(as long as it has water), eventually damage the building
and increase the chances that you will be exposed.
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How Do I Get Rid of Mold In My House?
That depends on how much mold is present and where it is
located. If there is only a small amount of mold, such as
in a bathroom or kitchen, scrub the moldy area with soapy
water, rinse thoroughly and allow to dry .If you have asthma
or severe allergies or a weakened immune system, get someone
else to do the clean-up.
If you have mold on a wall, floor or ceiling, the first
question is "where did the water come from?" Remember,
mold has to have water to grow. There is no point trying
to remove the mold if you do not also correct the moisture
problem that led to the mold. If the moisture problem remains,
mold will quickly grow back after the initial cleanup. If
mold is present in just one corner of a closet scrub it
with soapy water, rinse and thoroughly dry. Don't
store boxes right up against that corner. Do something to
keep that corner warmer such as leaving a light on in the
closet.
If you have mold growing under a window that leaked or somewhere
else that probably is due to a leak, you should have someone
with experience dealing with mold in buildings evaluate
the building. Why? Again, you need to fix the underlying
moisture problem. And more importantly you can release a
lot of mold from inside a wall cavity if you don't do the
work properly. You can turn a "little bit" of
exposure into a "lot of" exposure very quickly.
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