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Building Science Corporation________________________________

Topics of Discussion______________________________________

Vented Attics & Vented Crawl Spaces
House Design Recommendations    by Climate Region
Unvented Attic Discussion
Moisture and Attic Ventilation
Shingle Temperatures and Shingle Life
Space Conditioning Energy Use and Building Durability


Vented Attics & Vented Crawl Spaces

(From: Building Science Corporation - Joe's Top Ten :List of Dumb Things to Do in the South)

"My definition of an unvented attic is an attic where there are no vents and where the attic insulation follows the slope of the roof sheathing thereby including the attic space within the conditioned building enclosure.

The rationale for venting attics in the South is to "flush" heat. The dominant heat transfer mechanism in an attic is radiation. Venting attics will not "flush" radiation. The air change in a perfectly built and vented attic (code 1:300 ratio) results in an average air change rate of 3 to 6 ach. At this attic air change rate there is approximately a 2 to 3 percent reduction in heat transfer to the conditioned space through the vented attic as compared to an unvented attic insulated to the same level. This assumes an airtight ceiling and no ductwork in the attic and certainly not leaky ductwork in the attic. The moment ductwork (assumed airtight in this instance and insulated at R-6) is installed in a vented attic, the balance changes. There is approximately a 5 to 7 percent increase in heat transfer to the conditioned space as compared to my version of an unvented attic. This is due to conductive heat gains through the surface of the ductwork and air handler now located in a "hostile" location (a hot, vented attic), rather than inside a 75°F conditioned space (the "house"). The moment leaky ductwork is installed in a vented attic there is approximately a 25 percent increase in heat transfer to the conditioned space. Of course this does not happen if you have airtight ducts and an airtight ceiling (then the penalty for venting the attic is only 5 to 7 percent as previously noted).

Now, if you locate the ducts within the conditioned space and also build an airtight ceiling, this is approximately 2 to 3 percent more efficient than my version of an unvented attic. I never said that this wasn't the most energy efficient way to do it. Of course when is the last time you saw ductwork below an attic ceiling coupled with an airtight attic ceiling? Builders put things in attics because they don't leave any room in the house for the ductwork and air handler. If they continue to do this, then venting attics is a dumb idea.

So much for the energy concerns. Now lets talk moisture. What? Are you all crazy? The air outside is hot, humid and disgusting. And you want to bring this into an attic where it can diffuse through the vapor barrier-less attic insulation and get to the cold, air conditioned ceiling? What were we thinking! Before it gets there it will see those cold R-6 insulated ducts, fittings, etc. and drip all over. Give me a break. Venting attics in the South was dreamed up by some disgruntled Yankee pissed about the Civil War and wanting to get even. Be sure when insulating at the roofline in humid climates to follow moisture control principles as you would with any insulated wall so that the roof assembly is self-drying (www.buildingscience.com/resources/walls/exterior_sheathing_systems.pdf).

Lets now talk about durability of shingles and shingle temperature. Venting or non-venting a roof has about a 5 percent impact on shingle temperature and roof sheathing temperature and even less on shingle durability. The color of the shingle is more important than venting or non-venting. And temperature is less important than the shingle getting a sunburn. The biggest impact on shingle durability is ultra-violet light. UV is more critical than temperature. The best roof for hot, humid climates for all applications (including unvented attics) is a concrete or clay tile roof. Period.

Crawl spaces are real simple to understand and deal with. When you vent crawl spaces you bring in hot, humid air and cause moisture and mold problems. The ground surface is typically colder than the dew point temperature of the exterior air. The underside of crawl space floor insulation is radiation coupled to the ground surface and is very close to the same temperature of the ground. Moisture droplets can be seen all over the top surface of typical polyethylene ground covers as well as hanging from the bottom surface of the crawl space floor insulation. Gee, I wonder how all the water got through the poly ground cover? It must have leaked through the walls. Give me another break. Now, when the moisture is in the insulation where do you think it wants to go? Where is the air conditioning? Moisture moves to the cold surface. Venting crawl spaces made sense only when you had no air conditioning and no insulation and no crawl space walls.

Interested in unvented design strategies? It will take a while to change common practice as builders and contractors learn to adopt new approaches. Be sure to consult local experts and code officials before attempting unvented attics or crawl spaces on your own. Many design details that cannot be covered here are important to achieve best performance. See Houses That Work (www.housesthatwork.com) for more information."

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House Design Recommendations by Climate Region

In 2001, the Building America Building Science Consortium developed the Web-based Houses That Work (HTW) as a climate-specific technical resource for designing and building homes that are 30% or more energy efficient than the 1993 Model Energy Code (MEC). The resource reflected the experience gained from five years of Building America teamwork, including insights gained during the construction of more than 8,000 production homes from across the country. Houses That Work was and is a freely-accessible learning resource and reference for builders, building product manufacturers, building researchers, and the general public.

We call this Houses That Work II. HTWII is more comprehensive and more detailed and represents the latest Building Science Consortium experience and results under the Building America program. Specifically HTWII includes:

  • Updated North American hygro-thermal regions map that is aligned with the Department of Energy Model Energy Code proposed climate zones and map.

  • Climate-specific Best Practices with performance criteria for high performance home design and construction.

  • Three Building Profiles per climate.

  • A Building Materials Property Table1 (populated with technical and performance specifications from product manufacturers and building research members of the Building Science Consortium).

HTW II has five sections - an overall introduction and a section for each of five hygro-thermal regions: Hot-Humid, Mixed-Humid, Cold, Very Cold and Hot-Dry/Mixed-Dry. The introduction contains the hygro-thermal map and each climate section contains Best Practices and Building Profiles. See the table below for a quick reference for the components in each hygro-thermal region's building profiles.

Climate/
Building Profile
# stories Wall Type Foundation Wall Cladding Roof Roof Cladding
Very Cold
Aspen 2 Stick-
framed
Conditioned crawlspace Fiber cement battened panels Unvented cathedral Standing seam metal
Concord 1 Stick-
framed
Full basement Wood siding Vented unconditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Cold
Beacon Hill 1.5 Stick-
framed
Full basement Brick veneer Unvented cathedral Slate roof
Boston 2 Stick-
framed
Full basement Fibercement panels and battens Conditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Chicago 2 Stick-
framed
Full basement/
cast concrete
Vinyl siding Vented unconditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Denver 2 Stick-
framed
Full basement w/ sub-crawl Brick veneer/wood siding Vented unconditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Minneapolis 1.5 Stick-
framed
Slab-on-grade Stucco Vented cathedral Asphalt shingle
Vineyard 2 Stick-
framed
Full basement Cedar shingle siding Unvented cathedral Cedar shingle
Mixed-Humid
Atlanta 2 Stick-
framed
Slab-on-grade Fibercement siding Vented unconditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Charlotte 2 Stick-
framed
Conditioned crawl/ block wall Brick veneer Vented unconditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Louisville 1 Stick-
framed
Full basement/
cast concrete
Vinyl siding Vented cathedral Asphalt shingle
Hot-Dry/Mixed-Dry
Albuquerque 1 Stick-
framed
Slab-on-grade Stucco Vented unconditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Sacramento 2 Stick-
framed
Post-tensioned slab-on-grade Fibercement siding Vented unconditioned attic Tile
Tucson 1 Stick-
framed
Slab-on-grade Stucco None Low-slope membrane
Hot-Humid
Houston 2 Stick-
framed
Slab-on-grade Brick/
Fibercement
Conditioned attic Asphalt shingle
Maitland 2 Block/
stick frame
Block stem wall & slab Stucco Conditioned attic Tile
Orlando 2 SIPS Block stem wall with slab Cement board siding / brick veneer Conditioned attic Metal roof
Montgomery 1 Stick-
framed
Conditioned crawl/ cast concrete wall Vinyl or aluminum lap siding Vented unconditioned attic Standing seam metal
 
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Unvented Attic Discussion

"Sometimes you just have to color outside the lines. Unvented attics? You've got to be kidding. Well, actually, no. Unvented attics actually make a lot of sense. In humid climates, venting attics brings a great deal of moisture into the structure. Not venting makes this problem go away. In
cold climates, venting attics brings in a great deal of snow. Not venting also makes this problem go away. In roof design with complex geometries, venting roof assemblies can be extremely difficult. Not venting makes this problem go away. Ever try to install an air barrier in a complicated roof system? Even in hot-dry climates, not venting attics can make sense. Of course in all of these cases you have to know how to do it right.

What about moisture? What about shingle temperature and sheathing temperature? What about the energy costs? What about the code? Yeah, yeah, yeah, and yeah. O.k., everybody take a valium. We are not about to violate the laws of physics here; we are actually going to use them to our advantage.

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Moisture and Attic Ventilation

We traditionally vent attics to prevent moisture build up in roof sheathing. Where does this moisture come from? In cold climates the moisture source is from the inside. In hot-humid climates the moisture source is from the outside.

In cold climates, building unvented roof assemblies requires understanding the dynamics of moisture. The key is roof sheathing temperature. If the underside of the roof sheathing, typically the first condensing surface is kept above the dew point temperature of the interior air-vapor mix, condensation and moisture accumulation will not occur.

Not venting in a hot-humid climate to control moisture build up in roof sheathing is a no-brainer.  Well, maybe a half-brainer. You have to build your roof assembly right. In houses in this climate with asphalt shingle roofs, the morning dew collects on the outside of the roof, wicks up between the shingles, and then the moisture gets driven through the roof sheathing into the attic by "solar thermal drive" (remember, that's moisture moving from hot to cold). The typical asphalt felt under the shingles is permeable enough that the moisture heads right through, where it can cause problems like (at least) adding to your air conditioner's latent load, or (worse than that) growing mold on your roof sheathing.

So what's the solution? Simple-if you're using asphalt shingles, you have to use an impermeable underlayment-yup, a vapor barrier. Since polyethylene is difficult to walk on, we recommend either self-adhesive membranes or a low permeability roofing "paper" (actually a type of housewrap) such as Flexia Tri-Flex@ 30. Note that other roof materials (tile, metal) do not suffer from this problem. Tile typically has a vent space beneath and is usually installed over tar flood-coated roofing paper (yup, a vapor barrier). And metal roof cladding is not a reservoir-it can't store water. Wood shingles and shakes, on the other hand, do have a similar problem (See "Unvented Roofs, Hot-Humid Climates, and Asphalt Roofing Shingles").

In hot-dry climates with asphalt shingles we have a reservoir but we don't have the moisture. And in hot-dry climates with tile the question is moot -we don't have the moisture and the tile is back vented.

Air sealing for moisture control and durability in an unvented roof assembly is also important, particularly under any conditions where there is moisture-laden air (Translation: humid climates where air leakage can introduce moisture into the roof assembly from the outside and cold climates where air leakage can introduce moisture from the inside).

Air leakage can be a really powerful mechanism for moisture transport; its control requires careful air sealing details. In our experience, that means spray foam, particularly at junctions (like soffits where the roof and wall planes meet (Photograph 1) and ridges where the two roof planes meet Photograph 2). Do you have to spray foam to full roof framing cavity depth-no, this is an air sealing detail, not an insulation detail. Can I count on the air flow restriction afforded by a cavity insulation such as fiberglass batt or even dense-pack cellulose-no, this is an air sealing detail (Even dense-pack cellulose passes air-cellulose is a convection suppressor, not an air barrier). Can I get sufficient air sealing without spray foam-yes, blocking and caulking can work but depending on the pitch and complexity of the roof system, it can be a bugger. The real test? After you think you have an air-sealed unvented attic assembly, do a blower door test twice-once with the attic hatch open and again with the attic hatch closed. If you get a significant difference, think (and air seal) again.

Photograph 1

Photograph 2

 
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Shingle Temperatures and Shingle Life

What about shingle temperature? Well the obvious answer to that is don't use asphalt shingles. They're a dumb idea anyway. They burn. They're an energy heat gain nightmare. They are sensitive to ultra-violet light and can't be made to last more than 15 to 20 years despite what the warranty says. Anybody out there ever collect on a shingle warranty? They also off-gas horrible stuff. Hail just kills them. But they are cheap. And in cold climates, they are the roof coverings of choice.

In most hot-dry and some hot-humid climates, builders use concrete or clay tiles so the issue becomes moot. Ditto for steel, copper and wood roofing. Constructing unvented roof assemblies with these types of roof coverings is not a problem. With asphalt shingles, the operating temperature of the singles increases slightly, on the order of 2 to 3 percent (not to mention the moisture issues in hot-humid climates). That means that a black asphalt shingle roof that is typically at 150 degrees F, now will be at 153 to 155 degrees F .

However, that 3 to 5 degrees F increase is important, since it translates into an approximate 15 percent reduction in the useful service life of the shingle. Where does all this come from? Well, a good rule of thumb in physics and materials science is that for every 10 degree C (18 degrees F)
increase in the temperature of a material, you double the chemical potential. Potential for what you ask? Potential for bad things to happen is what!  Like a decrease in useful service life. Divide 3 degrees by 18 degrees and you get around 15 percent. On a 15 year shingle roof, that means you lose 2 to 3 years in the service life of the shingle.

Why is there only a 3 to 5 degree F increase in shingle temperature? Shouldn't it be much higher? Actually, no it shouldn't and it's not. Heat is transferred three ways: convection, conduction and radiation. Radiation is the dominant factor in roof assemblies. Venting your roof does not affect the radiation heat transfer (well, not by much). And the under side of the roof sheathing is not designed as an efficient plywood-to-air heat exchanger. When you measure the temperature of the air going into the roof and the temperature of the air going out and look at the overall air change (i.e. the mass flow rate), the heat removal by ventilation is pretty pitiful compared to the heat into the assembly from solar gain.

Now remember that all this is based on some simple rules of thumb. But all of this is backed up
by some real consistent field observations. I have about 1 ,000 unvented roofs with shingles under my belt Most of them are in CANADA. Yeah I know, the laws of physics are different up there.
But a lot of them are in NEW ENGLAND, MICHIGAN and COLORADO. Over a third of them are now over 10 years old and they are doing fine. These roofs are constructed from rigid foam sheathing sandwiched between plywood or OSB. My own house is built this way (but not my mother-in-law's, we won't go there!).

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Space Conditioning Energy Use and Building Durability

Remember there is a trade-off. I choose to give up the 2 to 3 years in the life of my shingles in exchange for better performance for the entire system. Not all people will want to make this choice. I already see their logic: Yes, I prefer mold in my house in Orlando in exchange for 2 to 3 years more on my shingle life; and yes, I want my shingles to be black or brown in Austin so that I can install a 1 to 2 ton larger air conditioner. Of course, there are people who also root for the Cubs, but we are slowly getting them out of the gene pool. These are also the same people who vent crawl spaces, but that will be the subject of another article.

Now, where the real effect of not venting roof assemblies is felt is the temperature of the
underside of the roof sheathing. Our field measurements and computer modeling show that the temperature of the under side of the roof sheathing increases between 10 and 20 degrees F. Why the huge difference here and not in the shingles? Well, compare the R-value of a shingle and the R-value of roof plywood. A temperature gradient can actually exist across the plywood. And, ventilation air on the underside of the roof plywood does remove heat. Take away the ventilation air, and you do increase the temperature of the underside of the plywood. But does this matter? Yes and no. Depends on the overall system design.

Not venting roof assemblies in most climates increases the air conditioning load on a typical home by approximately 3 to 5 percent. If the ducts are inside the conditioned space and we are not worrying about mold, humidity, ice-damming, or blowing snow issues, it's better to vent the roof and not give up the 3 to 5 percent.

But if you are stupid enough to put ducts in attics, if you are stupid enough to put air handlers in attics, if you are stupid enough to hire interior designers and architects that design incredibly complicated roof structures that cannot be air sealed at the interior drywall because of jigs, jogs, shelves, coffers, pot lights, valleys, hips, dormers, beams, skylights etc. and etc. and etc., give up the 3 to 5 percent. Guess what you gain? You gain between 10 and 30 percent savings from the airtightness of the roof sheathing and lack of conductive gain on ductwork in vented attics.

In Las Vegas, we are averaging heating and cooling utility savings of 20 to 30 percent with our unvented roof designs. Bye-bye duct leakage. Oh, the ducts still leak, but they don't leak to the outside. Bye-bye conductive gains on the ducts. The ducts are inside 80 degree attics. Yeah, but the surface area is larger and the attic volume is added to the house. Big deal, those trade-offs are nothing compared to the ease of constructing an air tight roof. The roof sheathing is now the air barrier (or the pressure boundary if you prefer that term).

In the humid south you also gain the humidity control. In fact, in the humid south you do not have any other intelligent choice. Unvented is the way to go. We've been fixing moldy houses in the humid south by turning vented attics into unvented attics for over 15 years.

Guess who hates all of this? The shingle manufacturers and the roof vent manufacturers. Duh."

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